Friday, December 21, 2012

Subaru musings

Last year we bought a 2001 Subaru Legacy L wagon.  It replaced a 1990 Toyota Tercel that had soldiered through 300,000km and was ready for retirement.  The Legacy was an ideal upgrade for us, being a roomy wagon with a manual transmission and, hopefully, engineering to match Toyota's.

The Legacy was built by Subaru to escape from the "quirky Japanese car" stigma they had achieved through years of building quirky Japanese cars.  Just google image search for "Subaru 360", "Subaru BRAT" (or Brumby), "SVX" and "Subaru Spare Tire" and you may see what I mean.

Despite efforts, the Legacy does come equipped with quirks, if you're going to buy a used one.  Subaru uses a horizontally opposed pancake engine in their larger cars, which puts the cylinders on a flat plane instead of straight-up-and-down or in a vee pattern.  This design means a low center of gravity on the engine, with excellent balance.  However, it also means that gravity is always pulling one side of the combustion chambers down.

The second and third generation legacy suffers from premature head gasket failure.  In the second generation this is an internal leak, so you won't see any fluids dripping from the motor, but it will consume coolant due to the leaks, possibly leading to an overheated engine and costly breakdown.  The third generation problem is an external leak, so you will get coolant and oil leaking out of the engine onto the hot exhaust, which can get stinky fast.  External leaks are not as dangerous as internal ones, since it's less likely for exhaust gases to introduce themselves into your coolant, and less likely to overheat, but it can still happen.

If the motor overheats, it can warp the heads, wrecking the engine.  The best way to deal with the head gasket problem is by replacing the head gaskets with modern versions.  Subaru has addressed the issue, and will offer warranty repair if the motor / car meet certain requirements (service intervals, service parts, mileage).  Ours was well beyond those requirements.  We paid about $1500 to have the head gaskets replaced at the dealer, but that cost included sending the heads out to be machined flat again.  The end result is a like-new motor that will not leak again.

Another design flaw is the rear tailgate lamp cluster.  This is a large plastic lamp assembly that covers the entire tailgate.  The gasket to seal out the weather will shrink and crack, allowing water to enter the cluster.  We've had to deal with two blown tail-light fuses, and sometimes (but not always!) opening the tailgate will drip water into the cargo area.  The fix for this will be to remove the cluster and replace the gasket with silicone sealant (a weekend job, but will need to wait for warmer weather).

Our last big issue is with the clutch.  When the car is hot the clutch will sometimes shake.  I think this is a warped flywheel.  It's a creature comfort problem and we just live with it.

So, to summarize, here are the pros of owning our Subaru:

  • Carrying capacity.  It's a wagon, can carry all our snow gear (or lumber)
  • All wheel drive
  • 5-speed stick shift lets you pretend to drive a rally car
  • Predictable handling remind you that it's not
  • Comfortable
  • Ideal road trip car- cruise control & A/C
Here are the cons:
  • Head gasket failure
  • Leaking tailgate
  • Shuddering clutch
  • Terrible CD player

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Sewing Smoke

Our ancient Husqvarna sewing machine got into the Hallowe'en spirit last night after we made a costume.  It went "pop" and smoked a lot, then started running on its own!

We pulled off the cover and found it had blown a capactitor:


Apparently the capacitor's job is to be a noise filter for TV/radio interference, and it can be safely removed.  I'd still like to replace it, though, in case it also serves other purposes.

Update: The machine works fine after removing this capacitor.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Fitting an enlarger lens to bellows



I recently obtained set of Pentax auto-bellows, which I had been after for a while.  The automatic diaphragm isn't what I was after, it was more to find a home for a nice (although not valuable) 50mm Schneider enlarger lens that I have had for ages.




Sunday, March 6, 2011

Pentax KA Zoom rehab



When I got this lens it was a mess.  The zoom was prone to drifting, the focus was sloppy and gritty, the rubber grip for the focus ring was gone, and the lens cap wouldn't even stay on.

I tried to sell it on eBay; got bids up to $2.75 and then the eventual winner changed their mind.

My plan is to find a suitable KA body to stick behind it - perhaps a Program Plus - but in the meantime I gave it an overhaul.  The Ricoh currently modeling the lens is also in need of a refit, and it can't run the A lens in Auto mode so I don't want to sell them together.

Dismantling was easy, because the focus grip was missing - pull the screws out and then it can be completely unscrewed.

I found lots of dirt in the focus helix (in the grease).  I tightened up all the screws to fix up the slop, gave it fresh grease, and cut a new grip off a donor lens (a Vivitar/Kiron 80-200mm f4.5).  The new grip was a little loose so I used my new favorite product to stick it on: Ultra-thin double-sided tape from Lee Valley.

Good as new?  I think it's better.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Kowa SeT SLR



I got this camera for $25, along with a newer-but-still-old Konica SLR.  It was is sorry shape.  The winder, shutter, and aperture were all stuck.

The Kowa seT is a leaf-shutter SLR.  Some companies dabbled with the idea, returning to curtain-style focal plane shutters... but Kowa never gave up.  To fire the camera, the Kowa must:
  1. Close the shutter
  2. Close the aperture leaves to the correct f-stop
  3. Raise the mirror
  4. Raise the light shield 
  5. Open the shutter to expose the film
  6. Close the shutter
  7. Drop the light shield
  8. Drop the mirror
  9. Re-open the aperture leaves
  10. Re-open the shutter
(See http://www.taunusreiter.de/Cameras/Kowa_SETR_eng.html - with handy drawings by Rick Oleson!)

Most SLRs have the primary mechanics behind the shutter, optics and controls under the top cover, and a bit of wiring under the bottom cover.  However, given the sequence above, there's no surprise at what lurks under the covers here:

Poking and prodding at the linkages under the bottom cover did not fire the shutter, although it did let me wind the winder again.  So, digging deeper, the lens had to come off, exposing the shutter.  Once I was that deep I could wind and fire the shutter manually, which was progress!

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Yashica YK

Ages ago my father gave me a Yashica YK rangefinder camera to fix.  At the time I didn't think much of it and stashed it in a camera box with all my other when-I-get-to-it projects.

I recently got to it!  And then some.  Now I can't be stopped.

This blog aims to document some of the experiences and (hopefully) success stories as I repair this and other cameras.

The Yashica's symptom was pretty innocent: you could not wind the camera without slightly depressing the shutter; also, the shutter did not fire.  I was pretty sure it would be something simple in the top.

The range-finder also wasn't working right - the yellow blob was there but the image never moved.  Must be a broken linkage or dirty prism, right?